Our Crescent crew pulls the idle tub, keeps the alcove, and hands back a shower anywhere in Tazewell County within days.
Written quote at no cost, one callback, no chasing afterwards.
Need a fast, safe way to wash up without stepping over a high porcelain wall? You came to the right spot for top quality bathroom remodeling work. Get a free quote today!
Now, let us talk real about your old, clunky washing space. First off, tall porcelain basins take up way too much room in a tiny bathroom. Plus, climbing over that tall ledge with wet feet feels like an extreme sport every single morning... my uncle almost pulled a muscle doing that last winter!
Besides, modern stand-up stalls just make your whole house feel bigger and brighter. Consequently, your daily routine gets a whole lot quicker when you can just walk right in. On top of that, cleaning smooth wall panels takes way less scrubbing than scouring dirty old grout lines.
Furthermore, getting rid of that ancient basin increases your home value pretty fast. In fact, most folks around Tazewell County prefer a huge tiled walking space over a dusty basin they never even fill up. Which means you get to enjoy a fresh room now and get more cash if you ever decide to sell your place later down the road.
Naturally, stepping over a two-foot wall on slippery tiles is a disaster waiting to happen. To solve this, a flat floor entrance removes that tripped-up hazard completely for folks of all ages. Therefore, older family members can stay independent in their own homes much longer.
Additionally, adding sturdy handrails and built-in benches makes your daily wash super relaxing. Surprisingly, these safety additions look like a high-end spa feature nowadays rather than a boring hospital room. As a result, you get total peace of mind without sacrificing your favorite style choices.
To help you see how these changes stack up, check out this simple breakdown below:
| Old Fashioned Basin | Modern Walk-In Space |
|---|---|
| High step edge creates tripping hazard | Flat or low threshold entry |
| Hard to clean dirty corners and grout | Non-porous solid walls wipe down fast |
| Uses massive amounts of hot water | Saves water with efficient spray heads |
Clearly, making the switch gives you way better function every single day. Likewise, you save money on your water heating bill while keeping everyone in your household totally safe.
Initially, our team comes over to take super precise measurements of your current layout. Next, we help you pick out your favorite colors, showerheads, and non-slip floor textures. Following that step, we give you a clear written estimate so you know the exact price upfront without any sneaky hidden fees.
Later on, the actual physical labor starts with removing that giant, heavy cast iron or acrylic monster. Oddly enough, those ancient units can weigh hundreds of pounds, so letting strong local pros haul it out saves your back from total destruction! Then, we inspect the subfloor underneath to fix any hidden water leaks or wood rot before setting up your new stall.
Eventually, we install waterproof wall backing and plumb in your fancy new hardware. After that, your sleek new space gets sealed tight so water never sneaks behind the wall panels. Finally, we clean up every single speck of dust so your home looks totally spotless.
Honestly, older homes around these parts often have quirky, legacy pipe layouts hiding behind the drywall. For example, homes sitting near the local creek or historic downtown streets might have older galvanized pipes that need a minor tweak. For this reason, working with a hands-on contractor who knows local building codes keeps your project running without any annoying permit delays.
Actually, even in smaller rural towns with around 630 neighbors, home styles can vary quite a bit. Whether your house is an older farmhouse or a classic ranch, matching the right drainage line size is super critical for keeping water flowing fast. Because of this, we always inspect the drain lines early on so your new stand-up base drains in a flash.
Generally, families living in areas with a median income around $51,591 want smart upgrades that fit a realistic budget while built to last decades. Therefore, we offer solid materials that withstand hard well water or municipal minerals without staining or chipping over time. This way, your investment stays looking brand new for years and years without needing endless repairs.
Count the baths your household actually ran last year. In most homes we visit, the honest number is somewhere between zero and three, and yet every single morning somebody swings a leg over fifteen inches of porcelain rim to stand up and shower inside a fixture built for lying down. The tub charges rent daily and works a few evenings a year.
Nothing dramatic follows from that. Nobody is in danger because a bathtub exists, and if long soaks are part of your week, keep the tub and enjoy it with our blessing. The case for the conversion is plainer: when the tub has become a shower tray with high sides, you are paying, in caution and in cleaning, for a feature you retired years ago.
The swap itself is smaller than most people picture. The supply lines, the drain and the alcove walls are already exactly where a shower wants them, which is why this is a job measured in days. We are not building a new bathroom; we are letting the one you have stop pretending it still gives baths.
The same alcove, photographed the way the week actually unfolds. Weather never delays this one; it all happens indoors.
Floors along the hallway get covered, the water goes off for a few hours, and the bathtub is cut free and carried out, tile flange and all. With the alcove stripped, the plumber moves the drain to where the new pan wants it and sets the new valve at shower height. By supper the room is bare, clean and ready.
The base arrives first: an acrylic pan set dead level on a mortar bed, or a sloped, waterproofed floor when the plan says curbless. Then the walls close in, either grout-free panels bonded in a single afternoon or backer board ready for tile. Everything from here on is watertight before it is pretty.
The glass panel or door is drilled, hung and plumbed straight, the trim goes on, and the silicone lines are drawn last. Silicone wants a day to cure, so the first shower usually happens the following morning, which is exactly how we schedule the walkthrough.
Both are real showers in the same alcove. The difference is the entry, and what has to happen under it.
| What you weigh | Low curb | Curbless |
|---|---|---|
| What stands at the entry | A tidy threshold about 3 to 4 inches tall | Nothing. The bathroom floor rolls straight into the shower |
| Cost, installed | The friendlier bracket, most jobs land here | Roughly a third to a half more, the floor is rebuilt |
| What the crew rebuilds | The alcove only; the bathroom floor stays shut | Part of the bathroom floor, sloped and waterproofed |
| Water containment | The curb and glass do the holding | The slope and a linear drain do the holding |
| Suits best | Straight swaps on a budget and upstairs bathrooms | Wheels, walkers, and anyone planning to stay put for decades |
Undecided is a fine answer on the form. The site visit settles it with a tape measure, not a sales pitch.
Removal
Cut free, hauled out and off to recycling, with floors and doorways shielded on the way. The loudest hour of the conversion, and it wraps before most jobs have begun.
Plumbing
Tub drains sit at one end; showers drain where the pan says. We move what needs moving and swap the old valve for a pressure-balanced one.
The base
A level acrylic pan for most swaps, a mortar-built sloped floor for curbless plans. Either way it is tested with water before anything covers it.
The walls
Grout-free panels go up in an afternoon and wipe clean forever. Tile takes longer, costs more, and looks like whatever you can imagine.
The glass
A fixed panel keeps things open and easy to clean; a hinged door closes the warmth in. Both are tempered, both are set dead straight.
The finish
Shelving, the hand shower, clean caulk lines and a walkthrough. We leave the cure time in writing so the first shower is not a gamble.
| The job | Usual range | Inside the number |
|---|---|---|
| Standard tub-to-shower conversion | $3,100 - $5,600 | Tub out, low curb pan, wall panels, new valve, glass panel. |
| Curbless conversion | $4,900 - $8,800 | The floor is rebuilt flush and sloped to a linear drain. |
| Glass: fixed panel or hinged door | $450 - $1,400 | A single panel sits at the low end, a framed door at the top. |
| Walls: PVC panels or tile | $1,100 - $3,900 | Panels finish in a day; tile adds days and takes any look you want. |
| Tear-out only | $450 - $950 | The tub gone and the alcove left clean for another trade. |
| Small job minimum | around $2,400 | Even the simplest swap books a licensed plumber and a full crew. |
Wall condition, drain position and the glass you choose move every line. The visit pins the figure down, and the figure then holds.
A bathtub drains at one end through its own trap; most showers want the drain nearer the middle, or along one edge when the plan is curbless. Sometimes the existing trap is close enough to reuse and sometimes it has to travel a foot or two, which means opening a strip of floor. We can usually tell which from the basement or the crawl space during the visit, and the paperwork you sign already names which one you are getting.
Houses older than the seventies like to add a surprise: galvanized supply lines rusted nearly shut, a cast iron trap that crumbles at a touch, or framing that got damp decades ago and kept it quiet. None of it is rare and none of it is ruinous, but it is your call, not ours. When something like that turns up, work pauses, you get photographs and a price for the fix, and nothing is billed until you have said yes to it. A conversion should never be the job where the invoice writes itself.
QIs losing the only bathtub a resale mistake?
AAgents around Crescent repeat one rule: a family house shows better with a tub somewhere in it. If this is your only tub and small children are in your plans, we put that on the table during the visit and you decide with open eyes. If another bathroom keeps its tub, or the buyers you expect are shower people, the argument evaporates.
QHow long do we go without washing?
AThe toilet and sink stay usable every evening, and the water is only off for stretches on day one. The shower itself is ready once the silicone cures, so figure on missing roughly three days of showers at home. Plenty of clients time the job before a weekend away.
QDoes all the old tile come off the walls?
AOn the alcove walls, yes, because the new waterproofing needs to start from the studs, not from forty-year-old grout. Tile outside the alcove stays put, and we cut a clean line where the two meet.
QCan the new shower use the tub drain?
AThe pipe itself is nearly always reusable; the position is the question. A low curb pan can often sit its drain within reach of the old trap. Curbless floors want a relocated or linear drain, and that difference is priced before demo, never discovered after.
QDo we need a permit for the swap?
AA like-for-like fixture swap usually rides on a simple plumbing permit, and moving the drain can add an inspection. We file whatever your jurisdiction wants and fold the cost into the written price.
QWhat if there is rot behind the tub?
AIt happens, mostly around the old tile flange. You get photographs the hour we find it, a firm price for the repair, and the choice to proceed or pause. The framing fix is usually a morning, not a remodel.
The map carries the geography; the link lists underneath spell out every town our crews can reach from this one.
For the bigger map: county seat pages start at Tazewell County; the statewide picture lives on Illinois; the wider region is the Midwest.
One three-day job stands between this bathroom and its best fixture.
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